Denver, Colorado: A Travel Guide to the Mile High City

I was invited to Denver for work. My company put me up at the Sonesta Simply Suites in West Denver. I’d always known of Denver, of course, and had mixed opinions about the city—and Colorado in general—growing up. I had no reason in particular. Just a vague sense that Colorado carried itself with a kind of pretentiousness; it believed it was better than other states. That attitude bothered me. I didn’t like Colorado. Still, I wanted to come in early and explore the city. I had several nights booked at the Sonesta, but I needed to see Denver for myself.

Denver, Colorado—the Mile High City—was founded in 1858 during the Pike’s Peak Gold Rush. Originally named Montana City, it was renamed Denver City three years later. It grew quickly, a frontier town at the foot of the Rockies, muddy streets and wood boardwalks, wood-framed shacks that gave way to small Victorians. The city was built and rebuilt with each passing decade.

Denver became a hub for trade and commerce, a natural center for the Underground Railroad. As money moved in from the East and West coasts, Buffalo Bill—William Cody—settled in Denver and founded The Buffalo Bill Wild West Show in the early 1880s. “Real cowboys and real Indians, Pony Express riders, Mexican vaqueros,” and a series of vignettes dramatizing the West. The show ran for thirty years. After a series of poor investments, it ended just months before Cody’s death. His final resting place is atop Lookout Mountain, overlooking the city from the west.

I spent an afternoon visiting the Denver Aquarium, North Dinosaur Park, Red Rocks Amphitheater, Union Station, and had dinner in Larimer Square. I caught the sunset from Lookout Mountain, discovered a hidden cache of graffiti art on the ridge of a local viewing area, and looked out over the city lights following the line of sight of West Colfax as far as the eye could see. It was beautiful. The day allowed me to see Denver through new eyes. I was particularly taken with art.

Denver’s art scene is eclectic. Galleries, museums, murals. The Denver Art Museum is known for its Native American collection and striking architecture. The River North Art District—RiNo—is a hotbed for contemporary art, just a short walk from Meow Wolf Denver’s Convergence Station. Meow Wolf began in Santa Fe, a small collective that’s now a national name, with permanent installations in Santa Fe (The House of Eternal Return), Las Vegas (Omega Mart), Grapevine (The Real Unreal), and Denver. Their work is bizarre, immersive, and unforgettable. Once you’ve seen one, you want to see them all.

Walking around downtown, I began to develop an appreciation for Denver—one I didn’t expect. F$&king Colorado, man. I wanted to dislike it. I wanted Denver to be a city of yuppie potheads and flat earthers. But the more I explored, the more I could picture myself there. Not really. But in my imagination.

The best way to get a feel for a place is through its cafés and coffee shops. I stopped by Huckleberry Roasters, Little Owl Coffee, and Pablo’s Coffee. I people-watched. I eavesdropped. And I realized these people were ordinary. Down-to-earth. Genuine. I was right about them. I was wrong to think they might be better than me.

Denver is gorgeous. Not just downtown, but the older neighborhoods, Curtis Park, LoDo, Cherry Creek, and Highland. Its proximity to the Rockies makes it an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise. In summer, you can hike, bike, or raft. In winter, ski and snowboard. It’s similar to Salt Lake City in that way. But Denver has its own rhythm. Its own pulse.

All kidding aside, Denver is one of the most beautiful cities in the country. Rich history. Comprehensive lifestyle. Vibrant nightlife. A high-minded standard of living. It’s one of those rare cities whose value is immeasurable.

I’ve been back to Colorado several times: Boulder, Colorado Springs, Durango, Pagosa Springs, Golden, Trinidad, and Pueblo. And all of Colorado has far surpassed my low expectations, except Pueblo. Don’t go to Pueblo. And honestly, Pagosa Springs is a one-afternoon kind of place.

Ultimately, my journey to Denver taught me something simple and essential: don’t judge a city—or a state—by its reputation. Denver is more than its outdoorsy vibe and hipster, Vail-adjacent persona. It’s a city with a rich history, a vibrant art scene, and a community of people who will make you feel welcome. And yes, the Rocky Mountains are pretty great too.

If you’ve been skeptical of Denver, give it a chance. You might find yourself falling in love with the Mile High City. And who knows, you might even discover a new favorite coffee shop or hiking trail somewhere along the way.