Discovering Bozeman, Montana: Through the Valley of the Flowers

The natives called it “The Valley of the Flowers.” W.W. Alderson called it “The Egypt of Montana,” “The garden spot.” He described it as “one of the most beautiful and picturesque valleys the eye ever beheld, abounding in springs of clear water.” That was before the flowers were leveled. Before Bozeman was built. Still, beauty remains. Flattened, maybe. But present.

By the time I found Bozeman for myself, it wasn’t a secret anymore. People were moving here from everywhere. It’s one of the fastest-growing communities in the country. The growth is visible. It’s felt. And it changes things.

I noticed something after spending time in the northern states, especially Bozeman. In the South, where I grew up, people browse. They get ready for the day and see where it takes them. In the North, people call ahead. Bozeman taught me that. And it took time to adapt.

Wandering the city streets—still adapting—I found hidden coffee shops, bakeries, restaurants, breweries, and pubs. Most weren’t open. I made mental notes. I’ve since called ahead. Cateye Café, tucked off Main Street, became my favorite breakfast spot. Best breakfast sandwiches I’ve ever had. Cateye made it easier to remember to plan.

I usually park on Babcock Street, a block from Main. I start my day at Wild Joe’s or Rockford Coffee. Wild Joe’s has a big menu, always packed with MSU students. The coffee takes time. Rockford is quieter. More modern. A little cold. And the coffee’s better.

I’ve tried to enjoy Main Street. It’s aesthetically appealing. There are good restaurants: Bacchus Pub, Revelry, Jam, Burger Bob’s, Rocking “R” Bar, Mackenzie River Pizza, and Sweet Peaks Ice Cream. And several cool shops: Vargo’s Jazz City & Books, Montana Trails Gallery. During the summer, the city shuts down Main Street for Music on Main; everyone comes out. Still, aside from the food and the façade, I don’t know what to do downtown. I sit. I people-watch.

My favorite parts of Bozeman are the historic neighborhoods north and south of Main. Founders and Presidents Streets, between Main and MSU, hold some of the most beautiful homes in town. I walk without direction. Turn down the side streets. I always end up at Cooper Park. Many homes have plaques listed on the historic registry. There’s a lot to explore outside Bozeman. National forest. National park. Trails. Campgrounds. Bozeman is a driving town. The best places are scattered. Hidden. Scenic.

One afternoon, I parked next to Soroptimist Park off Rouse and Main. I walked downtown, looking for something new. I ended up at Sweet Peaks. Ordered a Bear Scat ice cream in a waffle cone. Sat under a tree in a chair that looked uncomfortable. It wasn’t. I could’ve stayed there all day.

Later, I walked west. Stopped at Rocking “R” Bar. Got there before the rush. I found a table on the patio. Ordered a drink and a burger. Stayed into the evening. People-watched. The burger was slightly above average for Montana. Which means it was probably amazing anywhere else.

On my way back to the car, I stopped to read a historical marker. Bozeman became popular because of “the arts,” and specifically the theatre. One hotel built an elevated path to the playhouse so guests wouldn’t get their shoes dirty in the muddy streets. The city held a contentious meeting to decide what to “pave the streets with.” One man finally cried out, “For God’s sake, pave the streets with something!” Cooler heads prevailed. In 1908, Bozeman entered the 20th century by way of the arts. Bozeman has a turbulent, maybe odd, history. There may not be pride in it. But there’s spirit.

A single afternoon isn’t enough. If you want to know Bozeman, don’t make the mistake of thinking downtown is the best of it. You’ll miss the real places: Sidewinders, Plonk, Wild Crumb, Feed’s Café, Hop Lounge, Freshies Café, Ponderosa Social Club, Valhalla Meadery, MAP Brewing, Feast Raw Bar & Bistro, and Museum of the Rockies. They’re off the path. You’ll have to explore the raw domestic streets. But that’s where the flowers still bloom.