A Travel essay about New Braunfels, Texas by James Bonner

An Invitation to the Charm of New Braunfels, Texas

At the edge of the Texas Hill Country, where the limestone softens and the rivers begin to speak, sits New Braunfels. A town that doesn’t quite fit the mold and is better for it. It’s not loud. Not sprawling. Just winsome. Historic. A detour from the usual Texas narrative.

I started spending time in New Braunfels as a teenager. Drawn to the Guadalupe and Comal Rivers, I’d make spontaneous trips to find that perfect spot in a rubber tube, lie back, and let the river think. The Comal, often called the shortest river in Texas, is spring-fed and remains steady at 70 degrees year-round. You don’t need to plan. You merely show up. Rentals are easy. The float is quiet: Cypress trees tower, Limestone bluffs hold the edges, it’s a kind of surrender.

The town carries its German heritage without pretense. Founded in 1845 by German immigrants, the influence is still visible. In the architecture, the festivals, and the food. Wurstfest, held every November, is a celebration of bratwurst, beer, and polka. It’s not kitsch. It’s continuity.

Some people opt for hot air balloon tours. I’ve passed. Not out of fear, but because the Hill Country doesn’t translate well from above. Unless you have an unhealthy fascination with cedar trees, the view flattens. The magic is in the texture, on the ground, in the water, between buildings.

Schlitterbahn, the waterpark, is part of the town’s rhythm. Temporarily closed, it was slated to reopen in June 2024. When it’s open, it’s a kind of pilgrimage. The lazy river. The water bars. The Master Blaster. The Boogie Bahn. It’s not just amusement, it’s a ritual.

The Sophienburg Museum offers a quieter kind of immersion. Artifacts, photographs, and stories that trace the town’s German roots. Heritage Village adds dimensions: historic buildings, demonstrations, and a glimpse into 19th-century life. You walk through and feel the weight of time, but not the burden.

Gruene, pronounced “green,” is a living museum. The historic district feels like a place that remembers. Gruene Hall, the oldest continually operating dance hall in Texas, still holds its own. I’ve seen James McMurtry there more than once. His songs— “Just Us Kids,” “Hurricane Party,” “Out Here in the Middle”—feel like they belong to the walls.

New Braunfels is growing. Fast. That kind of growth demands foresight, and foresight isn’t always a given. The charm here is fragile. Progress has a way of painting over the past, even when it means to preserve it.

I’ve spent weekends here. Then another. I make time for Muck & Fuss, thirty-eight draft beers, each one tailored for the place. Good food. Better ambiance. Especially when there’s a band. The Alpine Haus is upscale, with old-world German recipes, served in a 165-year-old building that still feels like home.

It’s easy to make the mistake of planning a Texas trip around Houston or Dallas-Fort Worth. I understand it. But I wouldn’t recommend it. Not because those places don’t matter, but because you might not know what you’re missing (and they don’t matter). The Hill Country: Comfort, Bandera, Boerne, New Braunfels, is where Texas slows down and listens.

Whether you’re floating the Comal, riding the Master Blaster, dancing at Gruene Hall, sipping a one-of-a-kind beer at Muck & Fuss, or dining at Alpine Haus, New Braunfels leaves a mark. Not because it’s loud. Because it’s layered. And if you let it, it stays with you.

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